Sadly and, inevitably, there comes a time in every relationship when one person questions the loyalties of the other.   For me, this point arrived 8 months ago when we imported The Bean from the US.

Photo:  The Bean decked out Cosby-style in her new Korean threads.  Muy fashionable!

No longer am I asked “how was your day, babe?” or "how do you feel, everything OK?"  No, those days are long gone.   Now I'm asked, “hey, what up with The Bean?”   What up with the Bean?  Unbelievable. 

Who is this massive third wheel in our relationship, The Bean?  How did she manage to get between my boyfriend and me?   Where did she come from?    How can I send her back?    So many questions, but only one answer:  The Bean is none other than our ten pound Boston terrier.

The Bean flew into Seoul last November, and our lives have changed drastically.   She's our pet, and we love her, but getting her to Korea included a lot of paperwork, money and time, including a couple of visits to the vet’s office.  If you, too, are thinking of bringing a beloved dog to Seoul, there's a couple of things to consider if bringing a pet from the US. 

The first requirement in bringing a dog to Korea is that if your pet is over 90 days old, he/she must get a rabies shot 30 days before the date of travel.  (Conversely, getting The Bean back to the US requires only a rabies shot 30 days prior to travel, but to be safe also pay for a health certificate as some states require this as well.)  In addition, you must have a notarized health certificate within ten days of travel from your state's office of the US Department of Agriculture.   

The health certificate set us back about US$250, which includes the vet visit, sending the certificate to the USDA headquarters in the state of Washington for notary and certification, and the express mail, prepaid-envelope to send back to us.  You can get all the info you need at this website: http://www.iatatravelcentre.com/KR-South-Korea-customs-currency-airport-tax-regulations-details.htm.  Just for clarification – check with the USDA to bring your pet to Korea, and the CDC to take your pet back to the US.

Hopefully,  your dog also already has a microchip, because although not required, it is recommended for travel with your pet.  It is also a good idea to check with the airline prior to buying your ticket to make sure the dog can travel with you.  Most likely, you'll have to shell out an additional fee for the plane to keep him/her from being shipped separately.  All of this means that your loved one (or 3rd wheel) enters Korea without any quarantine time and becomes the most expensive dog ever.  

Preparing for the flight is the stressful part – the flights to Korea are not short.  The Bean is small enough to count as my personal item carry-on and flew under my seat.  A few things that helped during my flight with her – food (you get meals and dogs like food, too), a bowl for water, stress pills for dogs (they sell them at vet offices), and pee pads (food + water = bathroom needs).   Every couple of hours I would take her to the bathroom and let her roam around inside for a bit to see if she needed to do her business.  Unfortunately, the flight was too full to pull her out, but I have been able to do that during domestic flights.

Customs was pretty easy, all the forms were filled out quickly and we were happily in Seoul soon after.

Photo:  The Bean basks in some light attention, just as you will, as a foreigner in Seoul.  

Living in Seoul is a different story.  It is true that dogs aren't just for dinner any more (relax relax, just a joke, and no doubt a bad one), and actually are becoming more common for Koreans as pets.    The American style of raising dogs, however, is not quite the same.  The Bean goes on a walk 3-4 times a day to take care of her bathroom issues, but most of the Korean pet owners I've met take their dogs out maybe 2-3 times a week to exercise only.

The Korean dog lives her life indoors.  She uses the shower or litter box filled with pee pads to relieve herself.  She owns more clothes than I do and can be seen with shoes on while outside.  The American dog is chastised in the winter for lack of clothing and tries to keep up with her Korean counterpart fashion-wise.  The door woman in my building sniped at me every time I came in from walking The Bean this winter – “do you have a sweater for her? She is so cold!”  I had to submit and buy her a sweater that even Bill Cosby would be proud of –  but I am sure the Korean dogs made fun of her when we walked away.  Poor Bean.

Seoul is great for a dog, especially if you are a foreigner (you get away with more). There are many parks, normally the locals are excited to see the dog, and she receives many treats.  If you act like she belongs there, she does.  The Bean is with me during my morning coffee shop breaks and late-night Family Mart stops.   The best part – the vet visits are cheap and easy.  Our vet speaks English well AND is affordable.

There are some downsides, however, in having a pet in a big city like Seoul.  Dogs have curious olfactory systems.  The Bean apparently now loves sniffing spit, food left in front of doors for pick up, vomit, etc.  Moreover, some Koreans are afraid of dogs.  I have seen fully grown men scream and run like a 6 year-old girl away from The Bean.  Okay, not a downside, funny, but the fear of my small dog gets old quickly and many eye rolls happen during our walks.

Video:  The Bean being, well, The Bean.  HD version here:  The Ugliest Dog in Korea

In short, if you love pets, and have one that you are considering bringing with you to Korea, don’t be afraid.  Bring the dog, just be ready to pony up all that cash for travel and lots of stares while you take her out.  Or even better, adopt a dog that is already Koreanized.

About me:  How did a mid-West gal end up in Korea?   A tale of revenge, pure and simple.   Last year, my Korean-American (gyopo) boyfriend asked me to move with him to Seoul for the sole purpose of proving what its like to live "different" in modern society.    Sure, I laughed when he used to count the number of Asians he sees while visiting my family in Ohio (nine, on our last visit, all together going into a baseball game).  And I chuckled and shook my head when he threatened to show me first-hand what it might feel like to be in his shoes, sitting as the only white girl at his Korean-family gatherings.  

I scoffed back then--but now I know.  The past 8 months living in Seoul have been a roller coaster of emotions, embarrassments and learning experiences.   In my blogs, I hope to share what I, a homegrown Ohio native, by way of Seattle, 28 year-old (30!! Korean age) woman, has learned in this great and giant city of Seoul!

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